Like most traffic jams, when vehicles get backed up in Jasper National Park, Alberta, expect horns.

But they’re not the kind you think. Wildlife has the right of way in the largest national park in the Canadian Rockies, and these horns are on photogenic groups of bighorn sheep. But with the splendour of the snow-capped Canadian Rockies all around, who could be in a hurry?

“This is their road,” our SunDog Tours bus driver explained, as we stopped for a half-dozen ewes a few minutes from the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. They come to lick the minerals in the dust kicked up by passing cars and often stick around to graze.

Abundant wildlife, turquoise-coloured glacier-fed lakes, steep canyons and panorama views of white-topped 3,000-metre peaks bring more than two million visitors to this pristine area of Alberta every year. Known for adventure, Jasper is also a peaceful place, and the world’s second-largest Dark Sky Preserve. 

The summer-season return to Jasper has special meaning for locals, as the area marks a year since last July’s devastating wildfires. Sparked by lightning strikes, about 32,000 hectares of the park burned – and the fire damage to areas including Maligne Canyon is heartbreaking to see.

More than 20,000 people were evacuated as the fire rapidly spread. That included the mountain town of Jasper, where about a third of homes and businesses in the townsite were destroyed. 

Recovery is well underway as Jasper heals. In fact, the park opened to visitors last September, and nowadays much of the town is open and welcoming guests. Because Jasper is a tourist-based economy, it is delivering a heartfelt message to visitors to come back.

That includes the historic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, which has been bringing royalty, movie stars and guests from around the world to the heart of the park since 1922. Log cabin-inspired buildings of various sizes give the property a unique rustic-elegant sensibility. This is getting away from it all in deluxe, Canadian wilderness style. Staff say families have been returning here for generations. 

There was wildfire damage to some areas of the 700-acre lodge property. The forest around the heritage golf course is charred, although the course itself was saved. Signature cabin Milligan Manor and one of the Beaver Suites were lost, along with several hotel operations buildings.

Still, the JPL reopened last October and, like the town, is looking to the future. The resort is undergoing a multi-million-dollar renovation which is due to be completed by spring 2026. The rooms and cabins are getting a contemporary refresh, and so are the dining areas. 

The biggest undertaking is the remodelling of the Great Hall, the main hub for guests. While the renovations are underway, the golf clubhouse will take over as lodge reception from November until next spring.

What would a mountain resort be without a gathering spot? The magnificent Great Hall acts as a natural place for JPL guests to unwind and connect, with the Emerald Lounge and Great Hall gastropub on either side of a massive stone fireplace. The hall overlooks the Churchill Range mountains across glacier-fed Lac Beauvert – “beautiful green” in French. There’s also an outdoor terrace. And the outdoor swimming pool has the same spectacular view.

I started my JPL morning with a candlelit yoga class, followed by a peaceful walk along the shores of Lac Beauvert. The path took me past the boathouse, where guests can unwind in a lakeside barrel sauna and rent canoes and stand-up paddleboards. I made a mental note to spend some time in the indoor sauna and steam room after a post-breakfast swim. I also signed up for a free historic tour of the property.

Bikes are available, or you can see the scenery on horseback in a guided trail ride. Golfers get their fix, too. The resort celebrates the 100th anniversary of the Stanley Thompson-designed 18-hole golf course in July.

I ended my day as I started, with a gentle walk towards Lake Mildred, about 10 minutes from my room. An aurora alert app on my phone said there was a good chance to see the northern lights. But would they appear? The snow on Pyramid Mountain was pale in the moonlight, beneath a star-filled sky. Stargazing is helped by the lighting on the property, where low-wattage streetlights shine downwards to minimize light spill. 

As I stood on the shore, I caught a faint green flicker in the sky, proof that magic things can happen in this special place in the Canadian Rockies.

A Time For Recovery 

Restaurant and whisky distillery The Maligne Range opened in the town’s former movie theatre this year. The Jasper Brewing Co., which had some smoke and water damage, is reopening.

Wild Wildlife

I saw elk, mule deer and lots of bighorn sheep on my Wildlife of Jasper and the Ecology of Fire tour run by SunDog Tours. Driver and guide Yvonne Hannah is an expert on the park and its animal residents. We got a good look at the massive, curling horns on a half-dozen male bighorn sheep – Hannah had some teaching tools in the van. We hefted a bighorn sheep skull to feel the 10-kg weight of its horns, as she pointed out the ridges created by the enormous force of colliding territorial males, fighting during the fall rut. 

Ewes hang out separately from males. We were captivated by an adorable bighorn lamb that was grazing with a group of ewes in front of a fantastic mountain backdrop. The little guy was only a few months old.

We also saw elk and big-eared mule deer. At different times of year, Hannah told us, people will spot black and grizzly bears as well as moose on her tours. 

She also explained the role wildfires have in forest regeneration as we drove up the winding road into Maligne Canyon.

Eat Your Way Through Town

Jasper Food Tours’ Downtown Foodie Tour takes guests on a gentle walk to four restaurants for a taste of the town, including an alcoholic beverage at each stop. My tour included salmon crudo at The Maligne Range, smoked beef ribs and poutine at De’d Dog Bar & Grill, a taco trio – including seared elk tacos – at Su Casa Mexican Lounge, and maple cheesecake at the Whistle Stop Pub. 

Go to JasperFoodTours.com to book. ➜

Murals

Indigenous Knowledge Keeper Matricia Bauer does fireside chats for Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge guests and leads a variety of tours, including a new experience in town to learn about murals by Indigenous creators. The tour includes works by her daughter, Calgary-based artist Mackenzie Brown. Like her mother, she is also a drummer, singer and storyteller. 

Getting There

Jasper National Park is less than a four-hour drive from Edmonton. The more picturesque route is from Calgary, which includes the Icefields Parkway. SunDog Tours runs bus service from either airport, which takes a bit longer than self-drive. 

Plan your trip at Jasper.Travel ➜

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